Domaine de la Bongran Vire-Clesse Cuvee Tradition E.J. Thevenet 2015
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Robert
Parker
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The predominantly old vines are organically farmed and harvested manually, notably late and at a very high ripeness level. This cuvée is called EJ Thevenet: the E for Gauthier's grandfather Emile and the J for his father Jean.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet opens in the glass with notes of fresh peach, confit lemons, white flowers and clear honey. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with striking concentration, lively acids and plenty of well-concealed structure. Long and penetrating, this is a Viré-Clessé with considerable potential for the long haul, and though it will be released later this year, simply because the winery hasn't anything else to sell, I encourage readers to be as patient as possible. Gautier Thevenet suggests that this evokes the 2005 vintage, but it also bears more than a passing resemblance to the 1989—which is drinking at its peak today, age thirty.
Other Vintages
2014-
Robert
Parker
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Robert
Parker
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
These are the fun, fruit-driven and lively Chardonnays of white Burgundy, often offering some fantastic values and options that you don’t have to cellar. Flavors range from fresh green apple and lemon to melon or pineapple; some of the best are fleshy and mineral driven or balanced by a light touch of oak.
Mâconnais Chardonnay may have the weight of their more serious Côte de Beaune sisters, but not quite the refinement. Still, this appellation is one of the best ways to jump from California Chardonnay to something new and begin to understand white Burgundy.
The Mâconnais region is warmer and drier than the rest of Burgundy to its north (Côte d’Or) and has a landscape of rolling hills and farmland interspersed among vineyards. The region produces a lot of Chardonnay—Viré-Clessé and Pouilly-Fuisse are among the best—and a very small amount of red wine from Gamay and Pinot Noir. The soils of Mâconnais remain limestone dominant like in the Côte d’Or, making it a wonderful spot for Chardonnay to thrive. Gamay's home of Beaujolais lies just to the south.