Weingut Hirsch Ried Lamm Erste Lage Gruner Veltliner 2019
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Suckling
James -
Spirits
Wine & -
Enthusiast
Wine -
Parker
Robert
Product Details
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Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
The super deep, herbal nose pulls you inexorably into this very suave and complex gruner that’s first succulent, then profoundly mineral, retaining a wonderful lightness of touch through the extremely long, subtle finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
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Wine & Spirits
Lamm is local dialect for loam, which distinguishes this vineyard. Protected by the Heiligenstein hill behind it, the deep-soiled, south-facing vineyard is a sweet spot for grüner veltliner. The Hirsches’ parcels have been farmed under organics since the 1970s, and under biodynamics since the early 2000s, when Johannes Hirsch helped found Respekt, an association of biodynamic producers. He strives for pristine fruit, with no botrytis and fully ripe stems, so that he can press all of his wines in whole bunches; he leaves them long on the lees as well, in a mix of stainless steel and wooden barrels. His 2019 is warm and inviting from the very first whiff, playing a mix of lees, florals and spice off grüner veltliner’s deep vegetal tones. They meet in a mass of quietly succulent pear and quince flavors, with a sense of deep, rich earth adding substance.
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Wine Enthusiast
A beautifully exapansive, expressive nose of wet oakmoss and crushed boxwood characterises this wine. On the palate, smoothness becomes another chief trait alongside a pithy, textured mouthfeel beeded on salty yeast and augmented with fine, zesty freshness. This is fluid, compact, elegant and really smooth, letting its subtle savoriness complete the picture.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2019 Ried Lamm 1ÖTW Kamptal Grüner Veltliner is clear and crystalline on the fresh and spicy nose that shows ripe apple and finely flinty aromas. Full-bodied, piquant and fresh on the palate, with a smooth and juicy texture and fine, crystalline acidity, the Lamm reveals intense, finely concentrated and ripe fruit on the finish. A Kamptal classic. 13.5% alcohol. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg in June 2021.
Other Vintages
2020-
Suckling
James -
Enthusiast
Wine
Hirsch takes full advantage of the distinct terroirs found in the Lamm, Gaisberg and Heiligenstein vineyards. Johannes farms his vineyards sustainably and biodynamically and is certified by RESPEKT! Natural efforts have been made to ensure physiologically ripe grapes including high density planting, low trellising, canopy management and handpicking.
Fun to say and delightfully easy to drink, Grüner Veltliner calls Austria its homeland. While some easily quaffable Grüners come in a one-liter—a convenient size—many high caliber single vineyard bottlings can benefit from cellar aging. Somm Secret—About 75% of the world’s Grüner Veltliner comes from Austria but the variety is gaining ground in other countries, namely Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia and the United States.
Climbing north and slightly east of the Kremstal region, Kamptal has very little vineyard area bordering the Danube River (unlike Wachau and Kremstal, whose vineyards run along it). The region takes its name from the river called Kamp, which traverses it north and south. Kamptal’s densely planted vineyards represent eight percent of Austria’s total.
The area experiences wide diurnal temperature variations like the Wachau but with less rain and more frost. Its vast geologic diversity makes it suitable for various experimentations with other varieties besides Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, such as Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and Zweigelt.
But the region is probably most noted for the beautiful and expansive terraced Heiligenstein, arguably one of the world’s top Riesling sites, as well as some of Austria’s most extraordinary Grüner Veltliner vineyards. Kamptal’s soils, which are mostly loess and sand with some gravel and rocks, make it suitable for Grüner Veltliner, so much so that actually half of the zone is planted to that grape.