Winemaker Notes
Critical Acclaim
All VintagesSliced apples, lemons, white peaches, elderflowers and crushed stones on the nose with subtle white-pepper spice. It’s mineral and fresh, with a medium body and a crisp finish. Drink now.
Located in Monterotondo, the heart of Gavi DOC, Villa Sparina was founded by Mario Moccagatta. The winery is currently run by Mario, along with his two sons Stefano and Massimo. Head enologist Beppe Caviola, one of the foremost winemakers in Piemonte, has brought Gavi to new heights exploring the full potential of the Cortese grape. All of the Villa Sparina wine are produced from estate grown fruit and are estate bottled. The vineyards are overseen by agronomist Federico Curtaz, formerly of Gaja. They are increasingly oriented towards reducing yields, in an effort to achieve the highest possible quality. Harvest is delayed until the last possible moment, giving the wines great concentration and a wonderful balance of acidity and fruit.
Among Piedmont’s most historical and respected white wine producing zones, Gavi—also known as Gavi di Gavi and Cortese di Gavi—comes from Piedmont's southeast, in the province of Alessandria. Gavi is the main town of the area; Cortese is the grape. Cortese for Gavi is grown in any of 11 communes in the area where the soils are abundant in chalky, white, limestone-rich clay. The best Gavi from these locations are delicately floral, with stone fruit and citrus characters and a crisp, mineral-laden finish.
While typically made in a fresh and unoaked style, by law Gavi can come in many forms: frizzante, spumante, metodo classico and méthode ancestrale. But most producers maintain a conventional winemaking practice of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and make fresh, still whites. However, there are several barrique-aged examples, which can be interesting. The biodynamic wines of Gavi, fermented with ambient yeasts can be the most expressive.
First recorded in the early 17th century in the province of Alessandria in SE Piedmont, Cortese today is most highly regarded from Gavi where soils are limestone-rich. It also grows well in the surrounding zones, namely Monferrato and Colli Tortonesi. Somm Secret—Because of its freshness and chalky minerality, this white wine commonly populates the fish restaurants’ wine lists of the Ligurian coast so practically owes more allegiance to this neighboring region than its home.