Sine Qua Non The Duel Grenache 2008
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Sine Qua Non’s 2008 Grenache Estate The Duel boasts extraordinary richness, power and sheer depth. Tobacco, leather, mint and spices are woven together in this large-scaled Grenache. There is plenty of intensity here, but the 2008 has just a touch less aromatic definition than the very finest wines at Sine Qua Non. I imagine some of that may be the result of extended aging in oak. The 2008 is 82% Grenache, 14% Syrah, 2% Viognier and 1% Roussanne, all from the Eleven Confessions Vineyard in Santa Rita Hills. A portion of the Grenache was fermented using whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023.
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Wine Spectator
Remarkably elegant and understated, offering generous, supple plum, blueberry, pepper and spice. Deceptively sleek and subdued, unfolding slowly and gracefully. Drink now through 2020.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.
California is a winemaking colossus; by itself it is the fourth largest producer in the world. Red wine accounts for 56% of the total by volume, and red grapes 63% of total acres planted. In addition, a number of California red wines are heralded as being among the most prestigious and sought-after wines in the world.
While the state’s incredibly diverse geography, soils and microclimates allow for a wide array of styles, the key factor unifying California red wine is the abundance of sunshine and a long, consistent growing season. This leads to well-developed fruit marked both by impressive ripeness and balancing acidity.
The state’s most famous red wine region, of course, is Napa Valley, where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns as king. But California boasts a wealth of other impressive appellations. The much larger and climatically varied Sonoma County also produces world class California Cabernet, along with wonderful examples of California Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.
Fine versions of Cabernet and Zinfandel hail from Paso Robles as well, which is also gaining fame with Rhone varietals like Syrah and Grenache. As for Pinot Noir, terrific examples can be found from AVA’s such as Anderson Valley, Carneros, Santa Lucia Highlands and Sta. Rita Hills. Wineries in Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties are making wonderful Syrahs, and the Sierra Foothill appellations are proving to be an experimental hotbed, with Italian and Spanish varietals employed to great effect.
This of course is a mere sketch. The subject of California red wine is as deep and broad as an ocean, and absolutely a joy to explore!