Sine Qua Non Jinete Bajo Vin de Paille Roussanne (375ML half-bottle) 2008
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The days of the Mr. K wines are gone forever with the tragically premature death of Austrian Alois Kracher, who had partnered with Manfred Krankl in this intriguing homage to sweet nectars. Krankl continues on his own, and in Spring, 2011, he will release the 2008 Jinete Bajo Roussanne Vin de Paille, which is named after his wife's favorite horse. Made from 100% estate fruit, with a finished alcohol level of 11.8%, a whopping 240 grams per liter of residual sugar, and 8.7 grams of acidity, this is a pure nectar of honeyed marmalade, waxy, syrupy honeysuckle, exotic creme brulee, and citrus. The remarkable acidity cuts through the extraordinary sweetness, so the impression is fresh and vibrant. Krankl has pulled off a marvelous balancing act with this cuvee. How long will it last? I have no idea - maybe 50-100 years, but given the fact there are only 235 cases of half bottles, most of it will be consumed before 2020.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.
Full and silky in body but also charmingly crisp, Roussanne is native to the Rhône Valley of France. It is responsible for some of the finest Northern Rhône white wines. Roussanne adds richness and acidity to Marsanne’s soft, fruitiness, making age worthy and highly respected whites. Somm Secret—Roussanne takes its name from the French word, roux, meaning rouge or red because of the berry’s pink glow. In California, virtually all of the 339 acres of Roussanne come from true clones brought over by Tablas Creek and John Alban.
A superior source of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills is the coolest, westernmost sub-region of the larger Santa Ynez Valley appellation within Santa Barbara County. This relatively new AVA is unquestionably one to keep an eye on.
The climate of Sta. Rita Hills is a natural match for Chardonnay and Pinot noir, thanks to the crisp ocean breezes and well-drained, limestone-rich calcareous soil. Here, grapes ripen just enough, while retaining brisk acidity and harmonious balance.