Sine Qua Non Entre Chien et Loup 2015
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Parker
Robert -
Dunnuck
Jeb
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2015 Entre Chien et Loup is a blend of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petit Manseng and 8% Viognier coming 44% from Bien Nacido Vineyard, 30% from the Cumulus (Estate) Vineyard and 26% from the Eleven Confessions (Estate) Vineyard. No settling was done to the juices—they were fermented as “dirty” as possible and, as usual, they were not racked. This wine was matured for around 19 months (bottled April 12, 2017), in: 19% concrete eggs, 20% stainless steel, 20% used barrels and 41% new French oak. It opens with a positively electric nose of ripe apricots, pink grapefruit and green mango with notions of candied ginger, honeycomb, allspice and baking bread. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully satiny texture and incredible freshness, cutting through the dense tropical and stone fruit layers, finishing with epic length and many layers of savory and spice notions. By the way, I love the name of this wine and just wait until you see the label which, I’m happy to report, has already (somehow) been given the all-clear by the TTB. Drinking deliciously right now, it is built like a brick house and should cellar gracefully for 10-12 years+.
Rating: 97 -
Jeb Dunnuck
As good, if not better than the 2014 white, the 2015 White Wine Entre Chien et Loup (which translates to between a dog and wolf, but is a French saying referring to dusk/twilight) checks in as a blend of 44% Chardonnay, 40% Roussanne, 8% Petite Manseng and 8% Viognier, raised in a combination of concrete eggs, stainless steel, used barrels and new French oak (varying sizes). The Chardonnay dominates on the nose which shows terrific buttered citrus, stone fruits, marzipan and brioche nuances. These carry over to the palate where the wine is full-bodied, thrillingly concentrated and textured, with bright, even racy acidity. Give this beauty a few years, and it’s going to keep for two decades or more.
Sine Qua Non has its own winemaking facility in Ventura, California not far from the Santa Barbara vineyards where the fruit is sourced from. In the last few years Manfred and his wife, Elaine, have begun creating their own vineyards dedicated to Rhone varietals. Their winemaking philosophy is to work in very small batches, gravity flow, natural yeasts (unless a fermentation problem is anticipated), long lees aging for the whites and repeated racking for the reds to open them up. This is a modified explanation of a very dedicated and artistic approach to winemaking. The wines are simultaneously very rich and elegant, superbly balanced and thoroughly harmonious with food, never overwhelming.