Mustiguillo Mestizaje 2014
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Robert
Parker
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The red 2014 Mestizaje is the entry-level blend of Bobal with some 10% Syrah, 6% Garnacha, 5% Merlot and a 2% pinch of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo; the grapes comes from head-pruned, dry-farmed vines planted mostly in the early 1990s. Each variety is fermented separately and then aged for one year in oak vats and barrels. The wine has seen a change since 2012... In 2013 it's 100% grapes from the Terrerazo estate—and therefore a Vino de Pago—but more important, the percentage of Bobal has increased and they look for a fresher profile, which means the wine has gained in drinkability. There are no more notes of chocolate that were very prominent in 2006, 2007 or 2009; they have taken the Tempranillo out of the blend, a grape that has a tendency to get very ripe in the zone; and the wine is better balanced and focused. The palate shows also some chalkiness (all the grapes now come from vineyards in Finca Terrerazo, where there is a high content in limestone), and a Mediterranean character, but without heat. A very tasty and drinkable Mediterranean red.
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A relatively new winery, Mustiguillo was created to give a place and prominence to the unheralded varietal Bobal. The owners believe strongly that this grape, when cropped low and harvested later, can produce wines that rival some of the greatest wines of Northern Spain. As such, many of the old vines of the property have been kept (some as old as 90 years old) and new vines of Bobal have been planted as well.
Utiel-Requena lies on a warm, arid plateau at an average of 700 meters above sea level. Mustiguillo owns four distinct parcels scattered throughout the zone including two over 800 meters. Soil structure is quite poor, with low amounts of organic material. Gravel, some clay, and smaller amounts of limestone make up the bulk of the vineyards. Rainfall is lower than the Spanish average and this shortage is thought to contribute to the excellent fruit concentration of these vines.