Maximin Grunhaus Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 2007
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Wine & Spirits
Light and elegant, this is driven by its intense notes of slate, its minerality harnessing and enlivening the sleek apple and citrus fruit flavors. Its brisk acidity adds to the overall feeling of finesse.
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Wine Spectator
Reduced in aroma, yet showing clearly defined black currant and mineral notes, with a squeeze of lime. Racy and intense, with bracing acidity on the finish and a nice licorice aftertaste. Best from 2010 through 2020.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Apricot and red currant on the nose of the 2007 Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett leads to a glossy, juicy palate with a dynamic interplay of fruit and mineral and an impeccable balance of textural caress and invigoration as well as of fruit acidity and residual sweetness, the latter supportive but not at all obvious, permitting long, fine trace of saline and smoky mineral nuances to linger. This should be worth following for at least 12-15 years. Incidentally, whether or not the category of Kabinett feinberb is phased out, von Schubert is committed to rolling back levels of residual sugar on his unabashedly off-dry Kabinett Rieslings to levels that prevailed until 15 or so years ago, when – he hastens to point out – acids were generally higher and less ripe than today.
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Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Other varieties planted in the Mosel include Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), all performing quite well here.