Heritiers du Comte Lafon Vire-Clesse 2021
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Sourced from multiple parcels in the Viré commune.
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This Viré-Clessé from Héritiers du Comte Lafon has a delightful energy. Aromas range from green apple to nectarine and fresh white flowers, all marked with a smoky reductive quality. There is a lively acidity but enough richness to ensure a lingering finish. In 2021, the grapes came mainly from the ‘Clos Viré’ according to Pierre Lafon; this includes the oldest vines on the estate he rents in the commune of Viré. The result is refreshing indeed, yet it should hold well for several years.
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Early on, he strived to preserve the fruit and minerality of the region by using only larger, neutral wood for the aging of the wines. His belief and passion for the region has made Héritiers a towering beacon for fine wine in the previously overlooked Chardonnay mecca. In 2006, he appointed longtime apprentice Caroline Gon as head winemaker of the domaine. Under her tireless and inspired leadership, the gospel of quality Maconnais is spreading far and wide, with a clear and definitive voice.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Inhabiting the best of the upper half of the Mâconnais, Viré-Clessé, created from the delineation of the two top Mâcon Villages, produces lively, charming and full-bodied whites (of Chardonnay). Lemon balm, verbena, white peach, and mint evolve with graceful age to quince jam, spice, pine and brown butter. The aromatic intensity of Viré-Clessé suits itself to herb-laden poultry, as well as sautéed shrimp or vegetables. It is also the perfect partner to Camembert or goat cheese.