Henri Clerc Meursault 2014
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The flavor and texture are essential Meursault, presenting an interplay of pure and lively citrus fruit, nutty richness, mineral complexity and invigorating, vivid length.
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Wine & Spirits
Vincent Girardin farms this domaine under biodynamic principles, working with three stony parcels above the village where the vines average 50 years old. This wine is tight and flinty when first opened, its reduction both brightening the aroma and tightening up the raspy oak tannins. With air, the oak integrates and the wine’s freshness begins to dominate, with a complex, savory length of flavor that brings to mind the white flower scents and mineral depths of a great Champagne. Aaron Zebrook of NYC’s Le Coucou picked up on the “radiant,” high-toned aromatics: “I would want to drink this in spring,” he said, “with spring vegetables.”
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
Known to offer a magical balance of smoothness and freshness, Meursault's quality is hard to rival. The village lies in the middle of Côte de Beaune, just south of Volnay. Meursault is said to mean “mouse’s jump” because in the past the plots producing Pinot Noir and those producing Chardonnay were no more than a mouse’s jump from one another. Today the village is almost exclusively Chardonnay. A tiny bit of Pinot Noir is produced here with the best coming from Les Santenots on its northern side near Volnay.
While there are no Grands Crus, Meursault’s numerous acclaimed Premiers Crus can compete with any other top-notch white Burgundy. Some to know are Les Perrières, Les Genevrières, Les Charmes, Le Poruzot, Les Bouchères and Les Gouttes d’Or.
Meursault produces outstanding village level wines as well. In general great Premiers Crus and even village level Meursault (Chardonnay) have enticing aromas of lime peel, tropical fruit, crushed rocks, spice and hazelnut. On the palate there is a wonderful balance of brightness and a seductive length with flavors of white peach, pineapple and citrus.