Georges Vernay Condrieu Coteau de Vernon 2012
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Robert
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Seeing the same élevage as the Chaillées de l’Enfer, and from the famed Coteau de Vernon vineyard (which is right beside the plot used for the l’Enfer), the 2012 Condrieu Coteaux du Vernon is deeper and richer, with a classy perfume of white peach, citrus blossom, salty minerality, lychee and exotic flowers. Medium to full-bodied, supple, rounded and forward, with a decadent texture that never seems heavy, there are few Condrieu I’d rather drink.
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Wine Spectator
Juicy and energetic, with a big core of Bosc pear, green almond, fig and anise notes, lined with melon rind and bitter almond hints through the lengthy finish. The mineral edge should help this cellar well in the near term. For those who like a softer, broader feel.
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Wine & Spirits
This comes from a five-acre plot in the center of Condrieu, where the 50- to 80-year-old vines face east on a slope rich in biotite, a type of granite. In 2012, they produced a full-bodied concentrated wine, ripe without being sweet or heavy. It's so stony it feels almost austere, the pear-like fruit girded with mineral tones, firm and long lasting. Toasty oak bathes it all in a warm, golden light. This is built to age; put it away for five to ten years.
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A pioneer in the renewal of the Condrieu appellation, Domaine Georges Vernay has always made wines of unique style, notable for their finesse, elegance and harmony. The property has become a major emblem of Rhone Valley winegrowing, from the time when Georges Vernay saved the Condrieu appellation to the international awards earned by Christine Vernay’s Côte-Rôtie. Three generations have left the mark of the philosophy on the estate, while perpetuating its traditions in the greatest respect for both vines and winegrowers.
Full-figured and charmingly floral, Viognier is one of the most important white grapes of the northern Rhône where it is used both to produce single varietal wines and as an important blending grape. Look for great New World examples from California, Oregon, Washington and cooler parts of Australia. Somm Secret—Viognier plays a surprisingly important role in the red wines of Côte Rôtie in the northern Rhône. About 5% Viognier is typically co-fermented with the Syrah in order to stabilize the color, and as an added benefit, add a subtle perfume.
As the source of some of the most vibrant and powerful white wines in France, Condrieu is uniquely situated in one of the northern outposts of the Rhone River. It is the original Viognier appellation with a wine growing history reaching back well over two thousand years. Like most of the wine regions of the Northern Rhone, Condrieu’s vines grow on extremely steep and narrow granite terraces. But what makes the region unique is a topsoil, locally called, “arzelle,” made of decomposed mica. This and a sheltering of the harsh northern winds, make optimal sites to produce opulent and brilliant Viognier. It is a tiny zone with no room for expansion and produces miniscule amounts of wine each year, contributing to its allure.
A fine Condrieu will have aromas and flavors suggestive of ripe stone fruit, lime peel, green almond, ginger, white flowers and toasted nuts. A honeyed smell may mislead you to think the wine will be sweet but the modern style favors totally dry on the palate. Its texture will be full and soft but a touch of mineral will provide great balance.