Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo 2011
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Wine & Spirits
Valter Fissore’s meticulous methods in the vineyards and cellar are all aimed at achieving aromatic complexity and purity of fruit in his Barolos. He’s almost obsessive about avoiding oxidation, keeping the juice in stainless steel through fermentation and malolactic conversion, and preferring never to rack once the wines are in cask. That purity and freshness comes through in his 2011 Bricco Pernice, the warm vintage notwithstanding. Its flavors of plum and black cherry show a lush ripeness that’s balanced by cool acidity and delicate floral scents. Powerful tannins grip the fruit flavors, but the acidity and lush flavors buzz with energy and black spice notes, deepening and expanding as the wine opens over several days. It has the freshness and density to improve over the next decade and beyond.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Each year, Elvio Cogno's Bricco Pernice is among its most successful releases. The 2011 Barolo Bricco Pernice is a noteworthy addition to this long string of successes. The wine is built with heavy lines and bold favors. The 2011 vintage heat definitely helps to pump up the wine's sheer muscle mass. Soft cherry and blackberry flavors segue to smoke, spice and leather. On the Barolo scale, this wine is noticeably softer and rounder for near-term consumption - but it is also built to last, should you want to put a few bottles aside.
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The Cogno family has been making wine for four generations in Piedmont. In 1990, Elvio Cogno left a long and fruitful partnership with the venerable Barolo producer Marcarini at La Morra and bought a splendid, historic 18th-century farmhouse on the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area. (Novello is one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced.) The farm was surrounded by 11 hectares (27.18 acres) of steeply sloped vineyards. Elvio restored the manor, converted the old granaries to wine cellars and founded his eponymous winery. For the next 20 years he devoted himself to the winemaking traditions handed down to him by his father and grandfather.
Elvio, in turn, has now passed the torch to his daughter, Nadia, and her husband, Valter Fissore, who has worked beside Elvio for 25 years. Following in the footsteps of Elvio the maestro, Elvio Cogno winery continues to produce elegant wines without altering the traditions, styles and flavors of the Langhe, with its breathtaking quilted landscape and unique grape varieties.
The Elvio Cogno winery sits at the top of Bricco Ravera, a hill near Novello in the Langhe area of Piedmont, one of the 11 communes in which Barolo is produced. Ravera is the finest cru of Novello, encircling the top of the hill and the winery, reaching a 380-meter (1,246-foot) elevation, with breathtaking views in all directions.
Attracting the most glory, prestige and fame to the Piedmont region, Nebbiolo in all of its expressions—Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Ghemme and Gattinara—creates a complex wine, truly unique for its delicate qualities combined with strength and a great potential to improve over time.
But Nebbiolo isn’t all there is to red wine from Piedmont! Barbera is the most planted variety and historically most popular as a dependable, food-friendly, everyday wine.
Beyond these two, a surprising number of red varieties call Piedmont their home. Worth a try include Dolcetto for its bold concentration and aromas of spice cake. Other grapes to investigate include Freisa, Croatina, Brachetto, Grignolino and Pelaverga.