Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef) Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2020
#34 Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2022
The wine shows a pronounced bouquet of very ripe red and yellow fruits with exotic and slightly spicy notes with well-integrated acidity. The slatey minerality so typical of the Mosel adds further complexity.
The internationally renowned estate Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Erben Müller-Burggraef is located in the picturesque town of Bernkastel-Kues alongside the Mosel River. Here, estate manager Maximilian Ferger cultivates 40 acres of top notch, steep slope Riesling sites. For generations the name Thanisch has been synonymous for luxurious white wines from the Mosel. In 2015, the winery invested into a state-of-the-art estate building made of heat-insulating concrete which allows optimal storage. In the subterranean cellar, temperatures remain perfectly steady. During harvest, the wine gently flows into the respective tanks via “Free Flow” from the press hall into the cellar. The building also makes use of natural resources: rainwater is collected in two underground cisterns and use for cleaning while the winery’s photovoltaic system generates power.
Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch Erben Müller-Burggraef is certified as FAIR’N GREEN, a holistic sustainability assessment which integrates business, environmental and societal goals. Within the scope of the holistic approach to sustainability, the entire management, the outdoor operations, the cellar management and the marketing are constantly optimized.
Following the Mosel River as it slithers and weaves dramatically through the Eifel Mountains in Germany’s far west, the Mosel wine region is considered by many as the source of the world’s finest and longest-lived Rieslings.
Mosel’s unique and unsurpassed combination of geography, geology and climate all combine together to make this true. Many of the Mosel’s best vineyard sites are on the steep south or southwest facing slopes, where vines receive up to ten times more sunlight, a very desirable condition in this cold climate region. Given how many twists and turns the Mosel River makes, it is not had to find a vineyard with this exposure. In fact, the Mosel’s breathtakingly steep slopes of rocky, slate-based soils straddle the riverbanks along its entire length. These rocky slate soils, as well as the river, retain and reflect heat back to the vineyards, a phenomenon that aids in the complete ripening of its grapes.
Riesling is by far the most important and prestigious grape of the Mosel, grown on approximately 60% of the region’s vineyard land—typically on the desirable sites that provide the best combination of sunlight, soil type and altitude. The best Mosel Rieslings—dry or sweet—express marked acidity, low alcohol, great purity and intensity with aromas and flavors of wet slate, citrus and stone fruit. With age, the wine’s color will become more golden and pleasing aromas of honey, dried apricot and sometimes petrol develop.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.