Donnhoff Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2021
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James
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Robert
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Winemaker Notes
A wonderful dry Riesling with a great depth, elegance and the pronounced, finely spicy aromas of the Höllenpfad.
Professional Ratings
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James Suckling
For anyone who has never taste one, this wine smells like the red-fleshed vineyard peach. Then, on the incredibly focused palate, you plunge into the mineral depths of a riesling Grand Canyon. You need to like acidity to appreciate this astonishing experience at this youthful stage, but the wine is still extremely young. For the moment you need to chase a laser beam!
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a two-hectare parcel with the oldest (50+ years) vines, the 2021 Höllenpfad Im Mühlenberg GG shows a deep, quiet and subtle but very complex and generous bouquet of ripe fruits and finely crushed stones (Rotliegend). Full-bodied, rich and intense, with immense concentration and substance, this is a powerful yet firmly structured, elegant, very long and complex Riesling with ripe tannins and a long, refined and textural finish. The acidity is saline and ripe, very elegant and completely interwoven with body, fruit and tannin.
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Wine Enthusiast
This feels light and graceful, with nuanced notes of quince, white peach and kiwi. It is quite polished and nicely knit, with acidity, minerality and fruit and floral elements all standing their ground. Steely acidity drives an intense power through the finish.
Other Vintages
2022-
James
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Wine
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James
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Wine &
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Robert
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James
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Robert
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Wine &
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James
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Robert
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Wine
Spectator
The grandchild of the estate‘s founder, Helmut Dönnhoff, paved the way for international success by establishing an enduring quality and style in his wines. His vintages would in fact become a byword for renowned German Rieslings the world over. Following his training at his parents‘ estate and university studies in winegrowing, he assumed responsibility for both vineyard and cellar starting in 1971. “Extraordinary wines are based on extraordinary vineyards. I‘m fortunate to have had the opportunity to acquire several world-class sites and in some cases to resume cultivation. It remains very much a privilege for me to produce wine from vineyards of such exceptional quality. It‘s more than I ever could have dreamed when I first started working.” This deep understanding of grand wines and grand vineyards was passed on from father to son to grandson.
The fourth generation now holds the reins: Cornelius Dönnhoff. He began his training in 1999 and, after a series of positions abroad, in 2007 returned to assume responsibility for the estate – initially for the vineyard and cellar, and now for all aspects of the operation. History continues, but the estate remains what it has always been: a family affair in every sense.
Riesling possesses a remarkable ability to reflect the character of wherever it is grown while still maintaining its identity. A regal variety of incredible purity and precision, this versatile grape can be just as enjoyable dry or sweet, young or old, still or sparkling and can age longer than nearly any other white variety. Somm Secret—Given how difficult it is to discern the level of sweetness in a Riesling from the label, here are some clues to find the dry ones. First, look for the world “trocken.” (“Halbtrocken” or “feinherb” mean off-dry.) Also a higher abv usually indicates a drier Riesling.
