Domaine Tatsis Xinomavro Goumenissa 2007
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Wine & Spirits
Stergios and Perikles Tatsis have created a small Eden in Goumenissa, a region northeast of Naoussa. Their vineyards, which have never seen a chemical, are hidden among forests teeming with wildlife; when it’s too wet to work the vines, the brothers collect porcini mushrooms, which make for incredible matches with their wines. This 2007 is classic Goumenissa, a blend of xinomavro with a bit of negoska (as per the appellation’s regulations), fermented with ambient yeasts in old oak casks. Its scents might bring to mind Barolo, in the notes of leather, tobacco and orange peel, but it’s darker, with hints of roses, sun-dried tomatoes and iron filings that mark it as xinomavro. It’s warmer, too, with a porcini meatiness to its mature flavors that gives it staying power long after each sip. Open it early in the evening, to sip on while you stir the mushroom risotto, and watch as the wine opens all the way through the cheese course.
Since 1998 Periklis and Stergios started abandoning any use of chemicals in the vineyards and winery and began cultivating according to the rules of organic farming. In 2002 they started experimenting and finally implementing several principles of biodynamic agriculture.
Native to Greece, Xinomavro is widely regarded the finest red wine of the country. Its name literally means “acid black”, and attains fullest potential in the country’s northwest region of Naoussa. These single varietal bottlings of Xinomavro (blending is not allowed here) are often compared to the fine Barolos of Italy for their structure, finesse and age-worthiness. While its vines are fickle and blue-black grapes grow in tight clusters, similar to Nebbiolo, Xinomavro actually appears unrelated. Somm Secret—The use of French oak can help tame Xinomavro but too much can overwhelm it. Some eschew oak entirely during winemaking; other producers use locally-grown walnut.
A picturesque Mediterranean nation with a rich wine culture dating back to ancient times, Greece has so much more to offer than just retsina. Between the mainland and the country’s many islands, a wealth of Greek wine styles exists, made mostly from Greece’s plentiful indigenous varieties. After centuries of adversity after Ottoman rule, the modern Greek wine industry took off in the late 20th century with an influx of newly trained winemakers and investments in winemaking technology.
The climate—generally hot Mediterranean—can vary a bit with latitude and elevation, and is mostly moderated by cool maritime breezes. Drought can be an issue for Greek wine during the long, dry summers, sometimes necessitating irrigation.
Over 300 indigenous grapes have been identified throughout Greece, and though not all of them are suitable for wine production, future decades will likely see a significant revival and refinement of many of these native Greek wine varieties. Assyrtiko, the crisp, saline Greek wine variety of the island of Santorini, is one of the most important and popular white wine varieties, alongside Roditis, Robola, Moschofilero, and Malagousia. Muscat is also widely grown for both sweet and dry wines. Prominent red wine varieties include full-bodied and fruity Agiorghitiko, native to Nemea; Macedonia’s savory, tannic Xinomavro; and Mavrodaphne, used commonly to produce a Port-like fortified wine in the Peloponnese.