Domaine Laroche Chablis La Réserve de l’Obedience Les Blanchots Grand Cru 2020
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La Réserve de l’Obédience is a delicate and subtle wine, and shows a different style in it’s youth and in it’s maturity. Before 5 years, the white fruit aromas, the mineral finish and the extraordinary freshness make a wonderful experience of a Chablis Grand Cru. After 8 to 10 years, the inherent richness of its origin is expressed at its best and the soft spices and acacia honey notes, still supported by the freshness, deliver a surprising expression.
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Wine Enthusiast
For this reviewer, the delicious umami midpalate of this wine is everything. Framed by fresh verbena skin, lemon oil, acacia spice, dandelion, celery leaf and black peppercorn, the wine is exciting now but can benefit from cellaring through at least 2028.
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Wine & Spirits
A cellar selection of Laroche’s top barrels from Les Blanchots, this wine reveals layers of intoxicating richness and delicate smokiness, hints of white violets and white cranberries in a classical Chablis. There’s a wash of acidity holding the ripe fruit in saline mineral suspension. A beautiful young grand cru.
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2019-
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The history of Laroche dates to 1850, when Jean Victor Laroche purchased his first parcel of land in Chablis. Since then, Domaine Laroche has led movements to raise the quality of the appellation with the creation of a charter of excellence for the Grand Cru producers. One of the most respected and largest landholders of premier and grand cru vineyards, the winery owns 90 hectares situated among the best crus. Its headquarters, the Obédiencerie of Chablis, reveals a heritage dating back to the Middle Ages when the Canons of St. Martin of Tours were making wine. St. Martin’s relics were hidden in the Obédiencerie for a decade. Domaine Laroche still produces and ages its premiers and grands crus in these historical cellars. Under the direction of Gregory Viennois, the winemaking team designate one team member to each plot who is wholly responsible for the management of that vineyard from pruning and health of the soil to the quality and quantity of fruit yields. It is this philosophy that makes the expression of each Domaine Laroche wine individual and unparalleled in quality and style. The importance of the ecological balance is crucial to maintain the vineyard heritage and to favor its durability. The respect of the soil, the vine workers and the environment are the center Domaine Laroche’s philosophy.
One of the most popular and versatile white wine grapes, Chardonnay offers a wide range of flavors and styles depending on where it is grown and how it is made. While it tends to flourish in most environments, Chardonnay from its Burgundian homeland produces some of the most remarkable and longest lived examples. California produces both oaky, buttery styles and leaner, European-inspired wines. Somm Secret—The Burgundian subregion of Chablis, while typically using older oak barrels, produces a bright style similar to the unoaked style. Anyone who doesn't like oaky Chardonnay would likely enjoy Chablis.
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A legendary wine region setting the benchmark for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay worldwide, Burgundy is a perennial favorite of many wine lovers. While the concept of ‘terroir’ reigns supreme here—soil type, elevation and angle of each slope—this is a region firmly rooted in tradition. Because of the Napoleonic Code requiring equal distribution of property and land among all heirs, vineyard ownership in Burgundy is extremely fragmented, with some growers responsible for just one or two rows of vines. This system has led to the predominance of the "negociant"—a merchant who purchases fruit from many different growers to vinify and bottle together.
Burgundy’s cool, continental climate and Jurassic limestone soils are perfect for the production of elegant, savory and mineral-driven Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with plenty of acidity. Vintage variation is of particular importance for Burgundy wine, as weather conditions can be variable and unpredictable. In some years spring frost and hail must be overcome.
The Côte d’Or, a long and narrow escarpment, forms the heart of the region, split into the Côte de Nuits to the north and the Côte de Beaune to the south. The former is home to many of the world’s finest Pinot Noir wines, while Chardonnay plays a much more prominent role in the latter, though outstanding red and white Burgundy wines are produced throughout. Other key appellations include the Côte Chalonnaise, home to great value Pinot Noir and sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne. The Mâconnais produces soft and round, value-driven Chardonnay while Chablis, the northernmost region of Burgundy, is a paradise for any lover of bright, acid-driven and often age-worthy versions of the grape.