Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru 2020
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Morris
Jasper
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Decanter
A great Richebourg, without a doubt, it is also a wine that needs time. This is firmly extracted and reveals itself only on the palate with a substantial density and structure. The fruit is not lacking, but it takes time to develop and is strongly coloured by mineral, earth and spice notes. Despite the tannic structure, it still shows a subtle, silky texture on the immensely long finish — a wine to last 50 years. Produced from the 0.6ha that Anne Gros owns (mainly in the lieu-dit Les Véroilles).
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Jasper Morris
An even glowing purple colour. The bouquet is exquisite, perfect dark purple fruit, in balance, nothing heated here. Raspberry remains the principal fruit descriptor, both succulent and fine at the same time, a smooth wave across the palate, the oak entirely incorporated, just a point of acidity at the back, some peaches too but only an iota. Almost a touch of youthful bitterness. Properly persistent.
Barrel Sample: 94-97
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Wine Cellar
International
Thin-skinned, finicky and temperamental, Pinot Noir is also one of the most rewarding grapes to grow and remains a labor of love for some of the greatest vignerons in Burgundy. Fairly adaptable but highly reflective of the environment in which it is grown, Pinot Noir prefers a cool climate and requires low yields to achieve high quality. Outside of France, outstanding examples come from in Oregon, California and throughout specific locations in wine-producing world. Somm Secret—André Tchelistcheff, California’s most influential post-Prohibition winemaker decidedly stayed away from the grape, claiming “God made Cabernet. The Devil made Pinot Noir.”
This is the village for the most die-hard Burgundy fanatics. Vosne-Romanée has for many hundreds of years been the source of the most sought-after Pinot Noir in Burgundy. The village claims six Grands Crus—and some of the most famous at that—but in other villages where owners manage tiny parcels or a few rows of any one vineyard, monopolies dominate the Grands Crus of Vosne-Romanee.
Of these monopolies, Domaine Romanee-Conti (DRC) reigns supreme, claiming not only more total vineyard area than any other producer, but outright owning the entirety of two of the Grands Crus and a majority of two others. In its full possession are naturally Romanée-Conti, as well as La Tâche. DRC also owns most of Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant. The final two, La Grande Rue and La Romanée are completely owned by other other produers: François Lamarche and Comte Liger Belair, respectively.
While one could spend a lifetime on the puzzles of land ownership in Burgundy, the point is that Vosne-Romanee contains the most valuable pieces of vineyard real estate in the world. Pinot Noir from any of its vineyards—especially from within its 27ha of Grand Cru or 58 ha of Premier Cru land—is going to rank among the best.
The most outstanding wines from this village have everything: finesse and elegance coupled with the body and sturdiness for incredibly long aging ability. They are intensely floral and exotically spiced. Beautifully ripe, complex and ephemeral throughout, they are robust, yet fine-grained in texture. These wines will stay gorgeous for the long haul.