Chateau Cheval Blanc 1986
- Vinous
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Parker
Robert
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Vinous
Finally, the 1986 Cheval Blanc, a vintage that I had not tasted for several years. This was not a renowned growing season for the Right Bank, but this Saint-Émilion bucks the trends to produce one of its most attractive wines. It has a gorgeous bouquet that you could lose yourself in with red berry fruit, quite tertiary at first, and scents of meat juices, fennel, juniper and wilted flowers. This is complex but also has the warmth I normally associate with the 1985s. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins, exquisite balance, light sous-bois and black truffle notes that infuse the dark berry fruit towards the persistent finish. It's like a less extravagant version of the 1985. It's probably at its peak now, though this bottle suggests it will drink well for many years.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted at the château, the 1986 Cheval Blanc has a far superior bouquet to the 1996 Cheval Blanc when I tasted them side by side. The aromatics here are far more cohesive and complex, very delineated with expressive Cabernet Franc, hints of cooked meat, cranberry, juniper berries and wilted rose petals - just gorgeous. The palate is beautifully balanced with slightly furry tannin that is offset by a superb seam of acidity. It is nicely structured but not overbearing, leather and truffle filtering through the black fruit and while there is a little austerity on the finish, it is purely complementary. Though 1986 is not known as a Right Bank vintage, the 1986 Cheval Blanc pulled victory out of the bag and at 30 years, it continues to give immense pleasure. Tasted July 2016.
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The present-day Cheval Blanc vineyards had vines at least as far back as the 18th century, as shown by Belleyme's map of the region dated 1764. Nearly a century later, the estate was acquired by the Fourcaud-Laussac family who owned it until 1998, when it was sold to Mr Bernard Arnault and Baron Albert Frère.
The vineyard is in a single block, and borders on the Pomerol appellation. An outstanding terror and unusual proportions of Cabernet Franc and Merlot give this great wine an absolutely unique flavor. Chateau Cheval Blanc has had a greater number of outstanding vintages than any other classified great growth over the past century.
Another unusual characteristic of Cheval Blanc is that once it reaches its peak, it maintains it for a very long time. This admirable wine is powerful, soft, rich, round and silky. It has tremendous fruit and elegance as well as exceptional quality from year to year.