Bisci Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto Fogliano 2020
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Robert
Parker - Vinous
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From a warm and sunny vintage, the Bisci 2020 Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto Fogliano shows its youth but also has the qualities for a long aging window. Specifically, it has the acidity, fruit weight and depth of bouquet. You should get an easy 10-year drinking window from this bottle. During my visit to the winery, we discussed what makes a great Verdicchio. Winemaker Aroldo Bellelli says the answer lies in quality must (or the pulp inside the berry) and not from the stems or the skins. This wine offers bright peach, apple and white pepper. The 2020 is slightly more structured compared to the 2019, and there is a bit more ripeness here as well. It closes with a crisp, salty finish. Rating; 93+
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Vinous
The 2020 Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto Fogliano keeps me coming back to the glass again and again; crushed stone gives way to nuances of white pepper mixed with vanilla bean and, finally, peach sorbet. It’s silky-smooth with a burst of inner sweetness up front that’s quickly quelled by the onset of saline minerals and savory spice. The 2020 is full of character, yet it’s less about fruit; exotic inner florals and salted lime slowly taper off towards the finish. This is such a unique expression of Vigneto Fogliano, one that I am totally enamored with.
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Wine &
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Robert
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Wine &
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Bisci practices organic agriculture, but is not certified organic. Integrated insect and disease control is followed. The Marche Region monitors climatic data and informs the growers in regard to the need for disease control. To thwart mold and pests, sulfur and copper-based products are used in the vineyards. For nutritional purposes, vineyard owners use "managed" cover crops between the rows of vines. The soil is tilled to avoid competition between the roots for nutrients, water and oxygen. When needed, organic fertilizer (manure) is used after the harvest. Low doses of SO2 in the wines help preserve the wine’s quality.
One of central Italy’s classic white grapes, Verdicchio thrives in two distinct zones of the Marche. The best vineyards of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi adorn hillsides a mere 20 miles from the Adriatic Sea. The vineyards of the smaller, more inland Verdicchio di Matelica, are at higher elevation. Somm Secret—Recent genetic discoveries have proven that the Verdicchio grape is identical to Trebbiano di Soave, Trebbiano di Lugana and Trebbiano Veltenesi.
Stretching along Italy’s eastern coast with neighbors, Umbria to its west and Abruzzo to its south, Marche is a region with a varying climate from north to south. Its coastal plains roll into hills that become the Apennine Mountains, which run the length of the country. The Marche's best red wines come from the grapes, Montepulciano and Sangiovese; the local Verdicchio makes refreshing, crisp and light whites.