Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 2017
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Parallels to the red wines of Burgundy abound in discussions of Poggio di Sotto. The Sangiovese wines released from this special property do always favor elegance and restraint over opulence and power, yet they never lack depth. Normally a paler hue of ruby than other Brunello wines, Poggio di Sotto’s tameness of color belies concentrated aromas and flavors. A profile anchored in bright cherry fruit is framed by highlights of balsamic tones and candied orange peel. The tannin structure is firm yet ripe and will carry the wine well through decades of cellaring. A classic wine from one of the world’s great wine regions.
Equally at home with flavorful meats from the grill as with refined and layered dishes. Considered a "Vino da Meditazione," Poggio di Sotto Brunello is also enjoyable on its own.
Professional Ratings
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Made with certified-organic fruit, the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is an impossibly graceful wine from a challenging vintage. This bottle defies the odds—and the dry heat of the growing season—to reveal soft layers of cherry, cassis and more vibrant fruit. It glides clear over the palate with silky momentum, and you only notice the tannins at the very end. Even those should soften and integrate as this collectible wine continues it bottle evolution. Production is 19,000 bottles. Best after 2024.
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Wine & Spirits
This is one of those wines that you feel compelled to drink, not just taste. The nose entices with scents of red cherry, vine-ripened tomato and a hint of blood orange. The texture is smooth and harmonious, with no sharp edges but plenty of verve. Subtle spice notes are perfectly integrated, energizing the vivid fruit flavors and coaxing you to take another sip. Beautifully refined and balanced, it is hard to resist now, yet will give pleasure over many years to come.
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James Suckling
Cherries and orange peel with cedar and pine undertones. It’s full yet fresh and lightly chewy with some citrus at the end. Shows tension and firmness for the vintage with a pretty form and purity. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2022.
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Decanter
Poggio di Sotto made 50% less wine in 2017 and will not release a Riserva. Maceration times were shorter than usual – just 25 to 30 days for the Brunello. It also spent three rather than four years in wood to avoid over-concentration. Aromas of steeped red berry infused with dried thyme and scorched orange peel make a heady first impression. The palate is mouth-filling and shows lovely purity of cherry and raspberry at the core. Concentrated in acidity with finely powdered, finessed tannins, this reveals just a hint of astringency on the orange liqueur and amaro finish.
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Wilfred Wong of Wine.com
COMMENTARY: The 2017 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino is formidable and memorable. TASTING NOTES: This wine excels with aromas and flavors of black fruits, earthy notes, and ripe citrus. Pair it with braised oxtail stew. (Tasted: October 13, 2022, San Francisco, CA)
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Wine Spectator
Bright flavors of strawberry, cherry and currant are at the core of this elegant red, which is balanced and long, with a fresh aftertaste evoking fruit and mineral hints. Firm, yet refined tannins should give this structure to evolve over the next decade and more.
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The estate changed ownership in 2011 when the original founder Piero Palmucci sold to Claudio Tipa, owner of the famed Grattamacco estate in Bolgheri and Castello di ColleMassari. The wines of Poggio di Sotto have continued to enjoy a meticulous commitment to the long-standing tradition of excellence, giving them a soaring reputation which is among the finest few in Montalcino.
Among Italy's elite red grape varieties, Sangiovese has the perfect intersection of bright red fruit and savory earthiness and is responsible for the best red wines of Tuscany. While it is best known as the chief component of Chianti, it is also the main grape in Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and reaches the height of its power and intensity in the complex, long-lived Brunello di Montalcino. Somm Secret—Sangiovese doubles under the alias, Nielluccio, on the French island of Corsica where it produces distinctly floral and refreshing reds and rosés.
Famous for its bold, layered and long-lived red, Brunello di Montalcino, the town of Montalcino is about 70 miles south of Florence, and has a warmer and drier climate than that of its neighbor, Chianti. The Sangiovese grape is king here, as it is in Chianti, but Montalcino has its own clone called Brunello.
The Brunello vineyards of Montalcino blanket the rolling hills surrounding the village and fan out at various elevations, creating the potential for Brunello wines expressing different styles. From the valleys, where deeper deposits of clay are found, come wines typically bolder, more concentrated and rich in opulent black fruit. The hillside vineyards produce wines more concentrated in red fruits and floral aromas; these sites reach up to over 1,600 feet and have shallow soils of rocks and shale.
Brunello di Montalcino by law must be aged a minimum of four years, including two years in barrel before realease and once released, typically needs more time in bottle for its drinking potential to be fully reached. The good news is that Montalcino makes a “baby brother” version. The wines called Rosso di Montalcino are often made from younger vines, aged for about a year before release, offer extraordinary values and are ready to drink young.