Domaine Bernard Gripa Saint-Joseph Le Berceau Blanc 2019
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Dunnuck
Jeb -
Parker
Robert
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Jeb Dunnuck
The 2019 Saint Joseph Le Berceau Blanc (100% Marsanne) brings more purity as well as more density on the palate. Gorgeous quince, white flowers, honeyed minerality, white currants, and spice all develop as this beauty sits in the glass, and it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, rich, yet vibrant texture, and a great finish. The purity, as well as the balance, are world class, and this beauty is unquestionably one of the gems in the vintage.
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Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
While the regular cuvée displays honeyed ripeness, Gripa's 2019 Saint Joseph Blanc Le Berceau—old-vine Marsanne from the lieu-dit Saint-Joseph in Tournon—features scents of crushed stone, pencil shavings and citrusy fruit. Entirely barrel fermented and aged, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and shows ample length and freshness on the finish. I've been deliberately conservative with my aging estimate but wouldn't be surprised to see this drink well for a decade or more. It's certainly among the top white wines from the appellation.
One of the star whites of the Rhône Valley and ubiquitous throughout southern France, historically vignerons have favored Marsanne for its hardy and productive vines. It can make a fruity and delicious single varietal wine as well as a serious, full-bodied version with amazing aging potential. The best examples of Marsanne come from the northern Rhone appellations where it is also blended with Roussanne. Sommelier Secret—Some of the oldest Marsanne vines in the entire world exist not in France but in Australia, in the Victoria region. Settlers planted it in the mid to late 1800s, calling it “white Hermitage.”
Spanning the longest stretch of river in the northern Rhône—from Condrieu in the north, to Cornas in the south—the heart of St.-Joseph lies directly across the Rhône River from Hermitage. While its soils are basically the same as Hermitage: granite, supplemented by sand and gravel, its east facing slope receives less sunlight than Hermitage, which causes less overall berry ripening on its Syrah vines. However, some of the best of them can rival any fine expression of Hermitage, Cote-Rotie or Cornas with concentrated black fruits, dark spices, crushed rock and violets. A general advantage of the region is that its Syrahs typically don’t need as much time in the bottle compared to a Cote-Rotie or Hermitage and are much easier on the bank account!
A textbook St.-Joseph red is firm with a core of minerality that is enhanced by savory and peppery qualities. Aromas and flavors of smoke, olives, herbs, and violets are common; its wines are dense in red and black fruit.
St.-Joseph is also a source of fine northern Rhône white wine. Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne grow well here and can be blended or made into single varietal wines. St.-Joseph whites are full and silky with citrus, pear and pineapple flavors and a rich bouquet reminiscent of honeysuckle, toasted nuts, spice and caramel.