Cesconi Trentino Pletter Lagrein 2016
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An excellent match for hard cheese, salumi, or red meats.
Blend: 100% Lagrein
Perched high above Trento on banks of the Adige River is the hill of Pressano. In these rugged Alpine surroundings, the Cesconi family tends their vineyards planted to both red and white grapes. The current proprietors can trace their family roots back to the 17th century when their great-grandfather, then a citizen of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, would load his oxen with wine to sell to the summer court of the Habsburgs in Innsbruck. After the fall of the eastern dynasty, the Cesconi family would sell most of its productions to inns and taverns of Trento. Building on more than 2 centuries of cultivating and producing wine in Trentino, the four Cesconi brothers - Lorenzo, Roberto, Alexander and Franco - as well as their father Paul, continue the family tradition.
The family has a deep appreciation and respect for the achievements of their ancestors, however, they seek to build on this history by perfecting the traditional practices of the Domaine. To that end, Paul and Alexander work entirely organically in the vineyards and continue to move towards biodynamic methods. They believe that these practices are best for preserving the health and quality of their vineyards and for producing the best fruit. The vineyards of Cesconi are the gem of the Domaine; with more than two centuries as vignerons, their old vines, some over hundred years old, are more of a family heirloom than a financial asset.
Roberto and Lorenzo are quick to point out that there is no "recipe" for winemaking at Cesconi - one must provide room to interpret what nature has provided for each vintage and vineyard. Roberto and Lorenzo are interpreters, curators, of what the environment has provided for them. Fermentations are with native yeasts, and the white grapes usually undergo a short four to five day skin-fermentation in a process that is called, "Alzetta di Capello" or the rising of the cap. Grapes are placed in large oak or acacia fermenters with skins and stems with juice only taken off after the cap has begun to rise. No sulfur is used during vinification or elevage and large wood vessels of 3,000-5,000 liters are preferred for the aging of the white wines. Some smaller barrels are used for the reds, but the wood is neutral with new barrels only being purchased when absolutely necessary. Red macerations are kept relatively short to preserve aromatics and freshness and punchdown rather than pump over is generally preferred.
Incredibly concentrated and uncommonly sturdy in character, Lagrein has roots in the Alto Adige area and has recently experienced a great renaissance in popularity. While the climate is cool there, the sun is intense on the region’s steep slopes. Warm hillsides near the bustling city of Bolzano create the perfect environment for the production of intense reds from Lagrein. Somm Secret— Lagrein Kretzer (German) or Rosato (Italian) is the spicy rosé version, which is delicious with smoked fish and white meat.
A mountainous northern Italian region heavily influenced by German culture, Trentino-Alto Adige is actually made up of two separate but similar regions: Alto Adige and Trentino.
Trentino, the southern half, is primarily Italian-speaking and largely responsible for the production of non-native, international grapes. There is a significant quantity of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Merlot produced. But Trentino's native and most unique red variety, Teroldego, while still rare, is gaining popularity. It produces a deeply colored red wine rich in wild blackberry, herb, coffee and cocoa.
The rugged terrain of German-speaking Alto Adige (also referred to as Südtirol) focuses on small-scale viticulture, with great value placed on local varieties—though international varieties have been widely planted since the 1800s. Sheltered by the Alps from harsh northerly winds, many of the best vineyards are at extreme altitude but on steep slopes to increase sunlight exposure.
Dominant red varieties include the bold, herbaceous Lagrein and delicate, strawberry-kissed, Schiava, in addition to some Pinot Nero.
The primary white grapes are Pinot grigio, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot blanc, as well as smaller plantings of Sauvignon blanc, Müller Thurgau. These tend to be bright and refreshing with crisp acidity and just the right amount of texture. Some of the highest quality Pinot grigio in Italy is made here.